Savage Single Shot Firearms > Hi! My Name is...

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fastpcb:
Hello All,  Just wanted to say Hi and I just got a 30-30 219!

Mike Armstrong:
Welcome!  And let us know details!!!!  Model number, condition, any modifications, etc.

Garnett:
Welcome!  I hope you can find some useful information here.  We have some knowledgeable members.  Best wishes, Garnett

fastpcb:


Hello again,

I added the pics of  my 219 which I purchased from a  local auction  here in California.  The ad stated the action did not open and the metal
was rusted.  I have been working on it for the last week or so.  I took the stock off and was able to see that the snap lever and cam had quite a bit of rust
so I oiled it "WD40" and let it sit for a day or so.  After that the action would release the barrel bolt but not cock the striker pin causing the pin to hit the ejector.  I have been cleaning the rust with a dremel tool and it is cleaning up very well.  I spent a lot of time on the barrel and an amazed at how clean
and shiny the bore  is becoming.  Wood is great except someone tried to mount a sling stud on the snap off fore arm?  Would have liked to see the first time they tried to throw it over their shoulder!

Thanks for your very informative site.  I found this prior to the auction and really made me want to win this rife.  BTW I paid about 150.00 total knowing
it was a project gun.  Will send more pics with progress.

Mike Armstrong:
Well, the good news is that you got an early 219; the nicest of them all, IMO.  The bad news is the condition, but of course you would have paid a LOT more for a cherry one, especially in Richifornia.  I know, I'm there too.

What's the bore condition like?  Kinda crucial if you intend to shoot it.  If it's rough, don't give up on it until you actually shoot it on a range--.30-30s can look like crap and still shoot "minute of muley"!  Uncle Mike's Bore Paste and a little elbow grease can do wonders to smooth up a rough looking bore.  Just don't overdo the elbow grease.

That external rust could be greatly improved with a generous, careful rubbing with a penetrating oil like Kroil and BRONZE wool.  Some recommend the finest grade of steel wool, but I recommend against it--it is harder than the oxide layer we call bluing.  Bronze wool is more expensive but much softer than  bluing and harder than rust.  You can get it at most big hardware stores and online from gunsmith suppliers.  Soak each area you are going to work on in penetrating oil and let it sit for a while, then rub away at the rust spots. 

You will be amazed at how much rust will go away when you wipe off the brownish goop!  Again, go slow and don't overdo the elbow grease!  Spend a few hours on it and you will be amazed at how much it will clean up.  You can take your time with this project and clean off one area or one part at a time, wipe it off and set it down until you have the time and energy to do another.

Let us know how this project goes!  Nothing back bringing an old rifle back from the brink of extinction to give you (and us) a warm feeling!

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