Savage Single Shot Firearms > Hi! My Name is...

Hi there, new here researching my 220 .410.

(1/3) > >>

LHS905:
Hi,

New here.  I found the site looking for information on my 220 .410.  It's always been in my family, but don't know the history of it-if it came from my Mother's or Father's side.  Long family history of firearms collection.  If I recall correctly it was with this shotgun that I broke my first clay bird.

I have dawdled here a little bit and have gleaned some info from the better informed.  I think it must be pretty early as I can't find a letter/number date code, but there is a "3" within a circle on the right side of the frame. It has a Utica address.  The forend does not appear to match, but fits-kinda.  It is cracked and has glue in a couple of places.  From what I learned here, I should be able to pull the forend off without removing the screw.  The screw on mine looks to be chrome plated and trimmed to fit.  There is also a hole on the barrel lug that has been tapped to receive said screw. The lug also appears to be filed to fit the forend.













It is far from perfect, but functional-and a family heirloom.  I have become intrigued by the new TSS turkey shotshells and the reviews of how well it works from a .410 for turkey hunting.  This would be a joy to carry in the turkey woods.  I'm a little concerned about the tightness of the choke-if there is one on these early .410s. The bore measures 0.38 which puts it tighter than a standard .410 full choke.

LHS

Garnett:
Welcome to the forum!   For sure, you have what I call a First Model Utica, most likely made before WWII. The First Model Uticas had a steel trigger guard like yours.  Later 2nd Model Uticas had an alloy trigger guard.  The date codes did not start until 1947.  The code was a letter inside a circle with a number.  The number was to identify the inspector and the letter identified the year.  A = 1947

As to the choke.  I have all catalogs from 1937 to end of production.  They do not mention any particular, but imply all chokes are full.  I have had a very few people tell me their 220's measured modified or something less than full.  Most likely these were opened up after leaving the factory, but no proof of this.  These guns had assembly numbers stamped in front of the barrel lug, on the inside top left of the frame, and on the wood under the butt plate.  These were a variety of letters and numbers, and I suspect that if this assembly number contained an "F", it was mistaken as a "full" choke barrel.

The forearms were not attached with a screw like your gun, unless this screw was just added for strength.  Yes, with a normal 220 without your screw, you should be able to pull the forearm off easily by holding the barrel with one hand and placing your other hand on the front of the forearm and pulling away from the barrel.  Please send a picture of the inside and outside of your forearm and I will try to give you some better information.  Once I get your picture, if it is not the correct forearm, I can send you a picture of what the forearm on your gun should be.   I hope this helps some.  Best wishes, Garnett

LHS905:
Forearm photos:


LHS

Garnett:
That is definitely not an original Savage 219/220 forearm.  I will send a picture of the proper forearm tomorrow.  They are available on Ebay, but you have to get the early one suitable for your gun, as later forearms for the later models won't fit.

LHS905:
Thanks Garnett, that confirms what I suspected.  Now I wonder if the "fitting" on the lug removed metal necessary to attaching an original forearm.








LHS

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

Go to full version