Savage Single Shot Firearms > Savage 219 Single Shot Rifles

M219 American Rifleman Review

<< < (2/4) > >>

Mike Armstrong:
Garnett, I got the "Rifleman" article--many thanks!  Seemed a fair review to me, although I've never had a 219 or 220 that had such a heavy trigger pull as the one they tested.  On the other hand, I've never had a factory new one,  so mine may have had the pull adjusted or just "wore in" to a lighter pull.  And I've seen 219s that had an aftermarket "trigger shoe" added by their owners, presumably to reduce the perceived trigger pull weight.

I assume from the case hardening and scope grooves that they gun they reviewed was the "B" model, and I've only had that as a shotgun, many years ago.  Most of mine, including the ones I still have are Utica-manufactured earlier models.

Do you have a Savage 1945 catalog?  If not, I have a spare I can send you.  It's not an original but a Cornell Publications reproduction, and very close to a "real" one.  They have most years available; you might want other years after you see this one.  Let me know.

Mike Armstrong

Garnett:
Mike, I do have a 1945 catalog, from Cornell.  Thanks for the offer.  About a year ago, I purchased from them, all the catalogs I was missing.  If anyone needs an old Savage catalog and can't find one, Cornell Publications has most of them.  Their catalogs are a quality item and the people are nice to deal with.  Very fast shipping.  www.cornellpubs.com   

Mannyrock:
  Most folks I talked to about the 219B on another talk board say that yes, the claw type scope rings won't stay in place.  They shift under recoil.  Very frustrating.   Problem is, the scope grooves are narrow and small, and exactly to the same specs as those on standard .22 rifles.  Fine for a .22, but not fine for a .30-30.

  The most common solution is for people to simply have the rifle drilled and tapped for the two piece weaver bases made for the rifle, or to buy a really good sets of all steel claw mounts, and then drill and tap a "set" screw in front of the forward mount,inserting a screw sticking up, to keep the mount from shifting forward.

  I have a 219B, with grooved receiver, and I am thinking about maybe installing an expensive set of claw mounts, and then taking a small flat punch and "peening" the groove a little flat just in front of the mounts.  Not too much, just a ding.  I think that this would probably keep the mounts from sliding.  The small peened sections could always be opened back up with a receiver grooving machine.

  I'll let  you know what I decide.

Mannyrock



savagebrother:
Hey guys, thought I would throw out my 2 cents worth.
Put some loctite on the mating surfaces and allow it to dry 2 days.
Oh on the scope ring and the groove in the barrel. I know this will work because I had to buy a slip on or clamp on style brake for one of my rifles and was a little concerned about it getting blown off.
Well I decided on Witts machines brake. Why? Well after talking to them about the mounting of their brake I found out that I would use blue loctite on the mating surfaces between the brake and the barrel and witts promised it would not move??? Well that was 3-1/2 years ago and several hundred round. It has never moved, not once!!
So I'm going to put a little blue loctite on my 219B 30-30 Winchester.
SB

Garnett:
Thanks for sharing that with us!  This is an easy solution to what could be a big problem. 

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page

Go to full version