New to this forum.

[fastpcb]

Hello All,  Just wanted to say Hi and I just got a 30-30 219!

[Mike Armstrong]

Welcome!  And let us know details!!!!  Model number, condition, any modifications, etc.

[Garnett]

Welcome!  I hope you can find some useful information here.  We have some knowledgeable members.  Best wishes, Garnett

[fastpcb]

Hello again,

I added the pics of  my 219 which I purchased from a  local auction  here in California.  The ad stated the action did not open and the metal
was rusted.  I have been working on it for the last week or so.  I took the stock off and was able to see that the snap lever and cam had quite a bit of rust
so I oiled it "WD40" and let it sit for a day or so.  After that the action would release the barrel bolt but not cock the striker pin causing the pin to hit the ejector.  I have been cleaning the rust with a dremel tool and it is cleaning up very well.  I spent a lot of time on the barrel and an amazed at how clean
and shiny the bore  is becoming.  Wood is great except someone tried to mount a sling stud on the snap off fore arm?  Would have liked to see the first time they tried to throw it over their shoulder!

Thanks for your very informative site.  I found this prior to the auction and really made me want to win this rife.  BTW I paid about 150.00 total knowing
it was a project gun.  Will send more pics with progress.

[Mike Armstrong]

Well, the good news is that you got an early 219; the nicest of them all, IMO.  The bad news is the condition, but of course you would have paid a LOT more for a cherry one, especially in Richifornia.  I know, I'm there too.

What's the bore condition like?  Kinda crucial if you intend to shoot it.  If it's rough, don't give up on it until you actually shoot it on a range--.30-30s can look like crap and still shoot "minute of muley"!  Uncle Mike's Bore Paste and a little elbow grease can do wonders to smooth up a rough looking bore.  Just don't overdo the elbow grease.

That external rust could be greatly improved with a generous, careful rubbing with a penetrating oil like Kroil and BRONZE wool.  Some recommend the finest grade of steel wool, but I recommend against it--it is harder than the oxide layer we call bluing.  Bronze wool is more expensive but much softer than  bluing and harder than rust.  You can get it at most big hardware stores and online from gunsmith suppliers.  Soak each area you are going to work on in penetrating oil and let it sit for a while, then rub away at the rust spots. 

You will be amazed at how much rust will go away when you wipe off the brownish goop!  Again, go slow and don't overdo the elbow grease!  Spend a few hours on it and you will be amazed at how much it will clean up.  You can take your time with this project and clean off one area or one part at a time, wipe it off and set it down until you have the time and energy to do another.

Let us know how this project goes!  Nothing back bringing an old rifle back from the brink of extinction to give you (and us) a warm feeling!

[fastpcb]

Hi Mike,

Thank you for the great advice! . I will get some of Uncle Mikes Bore paste and  Kroil you mentioned.  I am very surprised but the bore is coming
along nicely.  It is starting to shine and the rifling is strong.  For now I just would like to get it to a safe shooter condition and make sure it cocks
the striker.  I have some parts on the way from gun parts just in case.  I will send better pics next week.

Best regards 

[Garnett]

Thanks for the pics.  You have what I am calling a First Model Utica 219 rifle.  That is with a slim trigger and steel, gracefully curved and tapered trigger guard.  I see what you mean about the added sling swivel on the forearm.  That is an easy fix.  Check Midway or Brownell's catalog for a barrel band swivel to mount on the barrel under the forearm.  Once properly installed, the forearm will not pull off with pressure from the sling.  Then add a rear swivel to balance the looks.  Someone added a grip cap and non standard butt plate.  If the stock has not been shortened, check EBay or Gunbroker for an original hard rubber butt plate or installed a sold "Old English" style black recoil pad to replace it.  What ever you do to the grip I would remove that cap and either fill the hole where the screw is or add a hard rubber grip cap.  Good luck on your project.  Please keep us posted.  Best wishes, Garnett

[fastpcb]

Hello again happy Friday,

I wanted to share my limited progress on my 219.    Outside of the barrel was pitted so bad I have decided to go all the way to the bare metal.

I am taking my time trying not to ruin the letters.  See pics.   I also got my parts  from Gun Parts corp and I noticed the difference  in the Trigger
sear.  Mine is still in the receiver has the sharp notch and not the square one.  Not sure if this is going to work.  I will try and assemble this weekend
to see if this helps with the firing pin problem.

[Garnett]

Thanks for the update.  I hope you can solve your problem.  My research has shown that even in the same models, there were from time to time, internal differences in parts.  If you can't get the correct sear from Gun Parts, try Ebay and enter "Savage 219 and 220 parts".   

[Garnett]

As to the trigger being different.....I have found 3 diferent style triggers so far, for these guns.

[coyotejoe]

In your first photo it sorta looks like the safety lever pivot pin is missing.